Here are a few Pool Tips for all you pool addicts
SWIMMING POOL WATER CHEMISTRY FACT SHEET
Alkaline (basic) substances are present in all water. Within the 7.2‐7.8 pH range, alkalinity exists as a
bicarbonate material. Total alkalinity, as determined with a testing kit, is a measurement of the amount
of these substances in parts per million within pools and indicates the waterʹs capacity to withstand
changes in pH. The alkaline substances act as buffers, inhibiting changes in pH. Therefore, total
alkalinity is a measure of the buffering ability of pool water. The recommended level for swimming
pool water is 80‐120 ppm.
When pool water is found to be low in alkalinity (below 80 ppm) it is recommended that this level be
increased. This can be accomplished with the addition of baking soda using the following formula: 1‐
1/2 pounds baking soda will raise 10,000 gallons of water 10 ppm.
pH is a measure of the acidity or basicity of water and directly affects some of the chemical reactions
that occur in the swimming pool water. It is measured numerically on a scale from 0 to 14.
Very acidic Neutral Very basic (alkaline)
0 7 14
The ability of chlorine to oxidize matter and kill microorganisms is directly affected by pH. As the
pH raises this ability is adversely affected. In addition, at a pH over 8.0 scaling (precipitation of
mineral components) and cloudy water may result.
As pH falls below 7.0 the acidic condition will cause irritation to the eyes and mucous membranes of
swimmers. Low pH (acidic water) can also corrode metal parts of a pool system and damage the
The State standard for pH is 7.2‐8.0 (Recommended range 7.4‐7.6).
To lower the pH, muriatic (hydrochloric) acid must be added. It is advisable to add the desired
amount of acid to a full (plastic) bucket of water before adding to the pool. (Acid introduced directly
can stain the pool wall.) To raise the pH, soda ash (sodium carbonate) must be added.
The most common chemical used in the treatment of swimming pool water is chlorine. It not only
eliminates bacteria and algae by disinfecting (killing) action, it also oxidizes (chemically destroys)
other materials such as dirt and chloramines.
State codes require that chlorine be injected into the pool water through the use of an approved
automatic chlorinator. When chlorine (in any form) is added to water, a weak acid called
Hypochlorous acid is produced. It is this acid, not the chlorine, which gives water its ability to
oxidize and disinfect. Proper chlorination and filtration give pool water its clear, sparkling
Chlorine exists as a solid, a liquid and a gas. The strength of each type is determined by the amount of
chlorine within the material that is effective both as a disinfectant and an oxidizer.
1. Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) contains 12‐16% available chlorine. (By contrast, household
bleach generally contains about 5% available chlorine.)
2. Solid chlorine (powder or granules)
A. Calcium Hypochlorite ‐ 65‐75% available chlorine.
B. Chlorinated Isocyanurates ‐ varying percentages of available chlorine.
C. Lithium Hypochlorite ‐ 30‐35% available chlorine.
3. Gaseous Chlorine contains 100% available chlorine. This substance is highly toxic and therefore
requires special procedures when it is used.
CHLORINE DEMAND and FREE CHLORINE RESIDUAL
As chlorine is introduced into pool water, a portion is always consumed during the processes of
disinfection and oxidation. That portion of available chlorine consumed is referred to as chlorine
The hypochlorous acid left after the chlorine demand has been satisfied is referred to as the free
chlorine residual. This is what we read when we test the pool for chlorine. State codes require that the
free chlorine residual be at least 1.0 ppm throughout the pool at all times (1.5 ppm if stabilized
chlorine is used). It is recommended that a residual of 1.5 ‐ 2.5 be maintained with unstabilized
chlorine; 2.0 ‐ 2.5 with stabilized chlorine. (See ʺCyanuric Acidʺ description below.)
Some of the available chlorine will react with nitrogen‐containing compounds to form chloramines
(combined chlorine). A common source of nitrogen is ammonia, produced from perspiration and
urine. Chloramines give off a strong chlorine odor and are irritating to the eyes. The presence of these
two conditions leads many people to believe that there is too much chlorine in the water; actually
just the opposite is true. In order to eliminate the chloramines the pool operator must raise the
chlorine residual to 5 to 10 times the normal level. This procedure, called superchlorination or
ʺshockingʺ, oxidizes the chloramines, leaving only the free chlorine. Depending on swimmer loads,
it is recommended that a pool be superchlorinated as often as once a week in hot weather and once a
month otherwise, in order to control the formation of chloramines. (Note: bathing should be
prohibited until normal levels are restored.)
Landy Solar Cover Installation-Bubble Side Up or Down?
Do you Install Landy Solar Pool Cover with the Bubble Side Up or Down?
That is a valid question many pool owners both experienced and novice, need the answer to. In our humble opinion, ‘bubble side down’ is the best way to heat your pool water (by trapping more of the sun’s rays and preserving your chemical content.) In this way, the UV rays from the sun will heat the bubbles and then transfer them to your pool water. Since the bubbles are facing down directly into your pool, it heats them that much faster. Overall, this seems to be the best answer that we can give you.
For those that prefer ‘bubble side up’ the process to heat up your pool water, might take longer and eventually damage the bubbles themselves. This is because the bubbles that retain the heat are not facing the water directly. They are just over heating in the sun with nowhere to go. In other words, the sun’s rays need to flow through another layer of the cover before it can reach the water supply.
If you are looking for a faster solution overall, bubble side down seems to be the way to go. Think of solar pool covers as a thermal blanket for your pool. In order for it to heat up a large area in a short span of time it needs something to reflect directly off the sun’s UV rays. As the sun heats up the cover, it begins to heat up the water lying directly beneath it, and depending on how long you keep the cover in the water, it will last well into the evening when the temperatures start to cool off. Whichever way you bubble, we wish you a fun and relaxing time in the pool!
These are the new safety standards for private swimming pools – and a fence is no longer good enough!
- The Standards Bureau is in the final stages of updating rules for private swimming pools, because kids are still drowning.
- The latest standard says that a fence around a swimming pool is not enough; every pool should also have a safety net or cover.
- That net must be child-proof, professionally installed, and must carry the weight of an adult safely.
Every private swimming pool that can hold more than 30cm of water should be surrounded not only by a kid-proof fence, but should also be fitted with a safety net or a safety cover to prevent children drowning, according to a draft update from the SA Bureau of Standards (SABS).
Such a net or cover cannot be DIY installed but must be fitted by an “accredited responsible party”, according to the standard.
A cover is disqualified if it allows rainwater to pool for more than five minutes, or if a child can unfasten it. It must require keys, a combination lock or “special tools, devices, or inaccessible locations” to remove.
For larger swimming pools a net or cover must have a carrying weight of at least 220k to “permit a rescue” operation while holding up one child and two adults. For smaller pools, less than 2.4m at its widest point, the weight requirement is 125kg, for one adult and child.
The requirements form part of SANS 10134, a SABS standard last updated in 2008.
Other changes include a requirement for self-closing gates in fences or walls around swimming pools, and a new obligation on renters or other non-owners to keep completely empty any unsafe pools.
It is the responsibility of the owner of a pool to ensure it has both a fence or wall and a net or cover, the standard holds – but any occupier of a property “shall not allow water in an unprotected swimming pool”.
Occupiers are also responsible for ensuring that some sort of pole, be it a brush or a leaf scoop, is available near any pool “to assist a distressed person in the water”, and to regularly inspect a pool enclosure for damage.
The standard requires walls or fences to be at least 1.2m tall, to be sunk into the ground at least 50cm deep, to be very hard for children to climb, and with gates difficult for children to open.
Think you got a leak?
Here are a few things what to look for to help you identify the problem
Crack or lose threaded fitting on your pools weir:
- Your kreepy (pool auto cleaner) will start off perfect when the pools pump is switched on but will stop within a few seconds or lose extreme amounts of pressure
- your pump will attempt to prime but wont making a fluctuation noise until the kreepy is pulled out from the weir
- Constant bursts of bubbles out your pools return
- Lack of suction from weir when the vac lid and basket are in place
- Pool loses alot of water
Underground pipe leak:
- Constant streams of bubbles out the pools return
- Lose of water
- Damp spots in garden
Are you going to buy a new swimsuit, or you don’t know or need tips on how to rock your new swimwear? Well, you’ve come to the correct place!
Find your body type. A way to do this would be to visit www.calculator.net (Weight loss, very bottom, Body Type Calculator.), if you’re able to measure your bust, waist, and hip sizes. If not:
- The following are the four most common female body shapes:
- Apple (triangle downward) Apple-shaped women have broader shoulders and bust, and narrower hips.
- Banana, or straight (rectangular) Banana-shaped women’s waist measurement is less than 9 inches (22.9 cm) smaller than the hip or bust measurement.
- Pear, Spoon, or Bell (triangle upward) Pear-shaped women’s hip measurements are greater than their bust measurements.
- Hourglass Shape (triangles opposing, facing in) Here, the hip and bust are almost of equal size, with a narrow waist.
- A study of more than 6,000 women conducted at North Carolina State University in 2005 revealed that 46% of women were banana-shaped; just over 20% were pear-shaped; just under 14% were apple-shaped; and only 8% were hourglass-shaped. The hourglass is normally accepted as the “ideal” female shape in Western countries.
2Get rid of any unwanted hair. This step is optional, but if somebody else if helping you and giving you their opinions, or if you’re going swimming afterwards, you should shave.
Find the right shop for you.
- Try to avoid shopping online, even if it’s the cutest thing ever, unless if you KNOW it will fit you.
- It’s better for you to go to Kohl’s or Walmart, as those places have sales often, low prices, and swimwear or poolside glamour and swimming.
- For surfboarding, lifeguard suits, or anything else like that, you should go to a swimwear shop or sporting shop (that sells swimwear,) as Walmart and Kohl’s wouldn’t be a great place for that.
- If you need a swimsuit with padding in the chest area, Walmart has many swimsuits for great prices. They have push up padding, to regular padding, to light padding, to heavy padding (Which I personally do not recommend, as in my eyes, It looks like a big bra, but don’t be afraid to try it!).
Choose colors and fabrics that highlights, hides, and slims your least liked parts.
- To highlight a feature you like, use a bright color or pattern.
- To hide something you don’t like, use a solid color.
- If you have pale skin, use black or deep jewel tones, such as dark purple, navy, and maroon.
- If you have dark skin, bright colors can actually be more flattering and help hide what you don’t like.
- To add volume (such as to the bust or hips), choose a piece with ruffles in that area.
- To hide volume (such as on the waist), use shirred or ruched fabric.
- Don’t be afraid to buy separates that don’t match perfectly! Say you want to highlight your bust but draw attention away from your hips. You might buy a bikini top in a bright solid or pattern, and a bottom that’s a dark black, blue or brown (depending on the top).
Try to get a swimsuit that not only has the right color and fabric, but the right cut or type of swimsuit.
- A one-piece will hide your waist. Choose one with shirred panels over the stomach, or in a dark, solid color.
- A 1940s-style, bathing-beauty bottom that’s high-waisted can also help hide a waist. Again, go with a dark color or shirring.
- A tankini will highlight your waist, because it draws the eye to the section of skin that’s showing. If you love your waist but not so much your hips or bust, choose this.
- Boy shorts make your hips look wider, regardless of color. If you have a large bust and want the hips to match for a classic hourglass shape, choose boy shorts. However, be aware that this style can feel uncomfortable for some women, so be certain of fit before you purchase anything.
- High-cut bikini bottoms make legs look longer. If you’re short, or you’re long in the torso, this is a good selection.
- Halter tops draw attention to the bust, as do triangle tops.
- Tie-front bikini tops draw the eye to the bust, as well as pulling the breasts closer to one another, effectively making them look larger. If you have small breasts and want them to look larger, this might be a good fit.
- Bandeau tops will make the bust seem wider. If you’re a pear shape and you want to imitate an hourglass shape, choose a bandeau top with ruffles or another busy detail.
- For a large bust, look for a straight across cut at the top of your swimsuit with wide set straps to minimize your bust. Try a bikini top with an underwear and a thick chest band for extra support. A thick chest band will prevent jiggling so that the bra stays where it should be and you can’t fall out.
Buy the right swimsuit for the right job. It’s pointless buying a string bikini if you plan on swimming laps or surfing; it’ll be floating off in no time, embarrassing you no end.
- Bikinis are fairly limited in terms of active workouts in a pool or the sea, but a more solid tankini would hang in there no problems. Sports swimsuits often have added features to help with support, streamlining and comfort, so check them out if you’re planning on doing more than keeping cool by the pool.
- Most lifeguard work requires a one piece swimsuit in a plain color, perhaps the color of your lifesaving crew. You might also need to add shorts or a wet suit to complete the uniform.
- One piece swimsuits can be very sexy, especially when you choose nice colors and a flattering fit for your body.
7Have fun in or by the water!
Frequently Asked Questions for Swimming Pool Heat Pumps:-
What size heat pump do I need for my pool?
There are many factors that should be considered when sizing a heat pump for your swimming pool.
If you would like us to recommend suitable heat pumps for your pool, please answer the following questions:-
Also bear in mind that your heat pump needs enough power to heat your pool from cold at the start of the season.
In addition, the heat outputs quoted by each manufacturer are the maximum obtainable under optimum temperature and humidity conditions. In reality, the output that you achieve may be less than that stated.
For the reasons given above, it is therefore always advisable to oversize a heat pump whenever possible. A pool heat pump can never be too large, it will just heat up your pool more quickly ! If you undersize your pool heat pump, it will just run for many hours and may never raise your pool to the desired temperature.
This is where we can provide our expertise to consider all of these factors and help you choose the best size unit for your pool.
We therefore recommend that you contact us to discuss the size of heat pump that you require before making a purchase.
Each of our product listings has a sizing chart that shows the maximum number of cubic metres (m3) of water that each heat pump model supports.
Compare the volume of your pool in m3 to the sizing chart. If your pool volume is near the maximum size supported, then choose the next model up.
Always allow some “headroom” with the power of your heat pump. This will ensure that the heat pump can still produce enough heat to maintain your required pool temperature on colder days.
For rented properties or holiday homes, it is advisable to oversize the heat pump to allow a faster heat up time before guests arrive. We also have heat pumps with lockable keypads to prevent guests from adjusting the pool temperature.
Is a heat pump difficult to install?
Not at all, the heat pump needs a solid concrete base or can be laid on paving slabs. The unit then needs an electrical supply and it is best to get a qualified electrician to install this.
The plumbing is straightforward and the pipes are glued together. The heat pump only needs a flow and a return pipe.
You should install 3-valves to create a “bypass”.
The heat pump should be installed after the filter and as the last item before the water returns to the pool.
If you want to install the heat pump alongside your existing heater, then the water should flow through the heat pump and then through the existing heater before returning to the pool
See our Installation section for lots more tips on installing your heat pump
What warranty is offered on the units?
Each product listing states the warranty offered.
Most of our new heat pumps include an on-site parts and labour warranty.
All heat pumps shipped outside the UK are supplied with a parts-only warranty. Outside the UK you will need to employ a local contractor if required and we will courier any necessary spare parts to you
What size pipe outlets are on the units?
Most units have 50mm pipe outlets. They are normally also supplied with 50mm to 1.5″ adaptors as 1.5″ is the most common size of pipe in the UK.
In Europe, 50mm is the most common size of pipe.
Each heat pump listing states the pipe outlet size
We can supply adaptors to go to different pipe sizes if required.
What is the difference between the digital and analogue models?
Analogue units use a simple knob to set the required temperature whereas digital models have a digital panel where you set the required temperature.
Once the required temperature is set on either types, the heat pump will then automatically maintain the pool at the required temperature.
How do heat pumps work?
See our How they work page
How much can I save using a heat pump to heat my pool?
Large 32kw heat pump costs only R50 per day to run !
Smaller heat pumps will cost less than this to run.
What physical size are the heat pumps?
Each product listing states the physical sizes of each model.
Do you supply to mainland Europe?
Yes, we can ship to anywhere in UK, mainland Europe and beyond.
We regularly send heat pumps to France, Spain, Portugal, Czech, Netherlands etc
We have sent units as far as Egypt and Zimbabwe
Please email us with your required heat pump model and address and we will get a competitive shipping quote for you.
How are the units delivered?
The units are delivered on a lorry with a tail lift. The units are on a pallet and will only be delivered to your driveway. You must arrange to carry the unit to where you require your pump to be located. Note that the units are heavy and will require two or three people to move them safely.
What is a COP?
The COP is the Coefficient of Performance. It is the ratio of energy input to output. Eg a unit with a COP of 5 would provide 5 units of heat for every one consumed.
For example a heat pump with a COP of 5 would use about 4kw of electricity and output 20kw of heat (ie 5 x 4kw =20kw).
Bear in mind though that there is no international standard for stating COPs and therefore each manufacturer will state the maximum COP obtainable for their units under optimum temperature and humidity conditions. In reality you may not therefore always acheive the COP rating stated.
This is another reason why you should always oversize your heat pump
Can I install a heat pump in my pool pump house?
Most heat pumps should be installed outdoors as they require a good flow of fresh air to operate properly. The DPL,, Solar Bear Calorex and Waterco ranges of products can however be installed in a pump-house or shed using the through the wall ducting kit.
See the listings for these units for more information
Is it a good idea to install a heat pump in a greenhouse?
|Generally not. We would not advise installing a heat pump in a greenhouse.
Whilst this may seem like a good idea, the benefits are minimal.
This is because heat pumps have quite powerful fan motors and transfer a lot of air.
Within a few minutes of operating, the heat pump will have extracted all of the air in the greenhouse.
You also need a vent to allow fresh air to enter the green house to replace the expelled air.
Within a couple of minutes the temperature of the air in the greenhouse will be the same as the external air.
The air is not in the greenhouse for long enough to warm sufficiently to provide much benefit.
If the air flow to the heat pump is restricted, it may in fact cause lower performance.
Heat pumps normally work best outdoors with a good supply of fresh air.
Should I cover the heat pump in winter?
We recommend that you cover your heat pump during the winter. However, you must use a suitable cover. The cover must allow the heat pump to breathe so that mositure and condensation can escape, otherwise corrosion can occur to the components in your heat pump causing permanent damage.
We sell a special range of heat pump winter covers that are custom made for each heat pump model and incorporate ventilation mesh panels to allow air circulation.
Smaller heat pumps can be disconnected and carried into a garage or shed for the winter.
I have an existing gas boiler, should I replace it with a heat pump or keep the gas boiler as well?
|If you have an existing heater (eg gas, oil, electric etc), then we recommend that you install the heat pump alongside your existing heater.
This will allow you to run both the heat pump and the existing heater if required for a rapid pool heat up, or to provide a backup heater in case the heat pump develops a fault (unlikely). You can also switch to your existing heater when the air temperature becomes too cold for the heat pump to operate efficiently eg right at the end of the season.
If you want to install the heat pump alongside your existing heater, then the water should flow through the heat pump and then the existing heater before returning to the pool for maximum efficiency
How do I turn the heat pump on and off at the required times?
|Most of our heat pumps (apart from the Duratech Eco range) include a water flow switch. This means that they will only operate when your pool pump is turned on and water is flowing through the heat pump.
You can therefore control when your heat pump operates by using a time clock on your water pump.
Some models (eg Duratech, Heatseeker and eco7) also have a timer built into the digital control panel. This allows you to turn the heat pump on and off at set times independantly from the pool pump. Note that the pool pump always needs to be operating for the heat pump to work.
I have seen the same heat pump cheaper on another web site. Will you match the price?
|Our prices are some of the cheapest on the internet and we always aim to provide highly competitive prices.
However if you see the same product cheaper elsewhere, then please let us know and we will always try to match or beat any pricing you have seen
What does “3-Phase” and “Single Phase” mean?
|This refers to the type of electrical supply that the heat pump needs.
Most properties have a single phase supply (eg a live and neutral wire) .
Some larger properties or commercial properties have 3-phase supplies.
The smaller heat pumps are single phase and larger ones, (generally over 30kw) require a 3-phase supply.
If you are not sure what electrical supply you have, ask your electrician to check this before ordering your heat pump.
Generally, 3-phase units are 380/440v but in some parts of France, 3-phase units can be 220v, so please check before ordering
How long will the heat pump run for each day?
|Just like the boiler in your house, the heat pump will run for different amounts of time each day depending on the weather.
On warm summer days when the pool is up to temperature, the heat pump may not need to run at all. Whereas on cooler days, the heat pump may run for a few hours.
In extremely cold weather (eg below +5c) the heat pump may need to run for 12 hours a day or more.
When you keep a solar cover on your pool, this will give the pool some heat gain on warm days and will supplement the heat pump.
As the weather gets colder the heat pump will need to run for longer.
You can control how long the heat pump runs for each day by using a time-clock on your pool pump.
Other factors that affect how long the heat pump will run for each day include:-
As a guide, on warm summer days the heat pump would typically run for between 0-3 hours
On cooler days between 3-8 hours should be sufficient but this depends on the factors mentioned above
Should I keep a solar cover on my pool when using a heat pump?
|Absolutely ! It is almost compulsory to use a solar cover when using a heat pump to heat your pool.
A solar cover provides several benefits:-
Not using a solar cover is like not insulating the loft in your house. As your heat pump puts heat into the pool, it will be lost into the air when a solar cover is not used.
An uncovered pool will lose about 2-3 times more heat than a covered pool.
Covering the pool is particularly important at night as the air temperature will drop causing a temperature difference between the pool water and the air.
The temperature difference will cause your pool to lose heat at a greater rate than during the day.
We recommend that you keep a solar cover on the pool at all times when the pool is not in use.
The solar cover will work in conjunction with your heat pump to make an efficient combination for heating your pool and minimising energy requirements.
We sell good quality solar covers and rollers
Can I put my heat pump under a tree?
|You can put a heat pump under a tree as long as the tree is more than 2-3 meters above the heat pump.
This is so that the air coming out of the heat pump (on vertical fan models) does not hit the leaves of the tree and then recirculate back into the heat pump. This would cause reduced efficiency.
While the heat pump is operating, the fan will prevent leaves from entering the heat pump.
In the winter, we recommend that you cover the heat pump using one of our specially designed winter covers.
This will prevent leaves from entering the heat pump in Autumn.
I have an indoor pool, should I put the heat pump inside the pool enclosure to act as a dehumidifier as well as heating the pool water?
|For indoor pools, it is possible to put a heat pump inside the pool enclosure or in a plant room.
In order to do this, the air expelled from the heat pump is blown out of the building by using a through the wall vent kit. (this is only available for some models of heat pump)
A grille, preferably at the other end of the building would allow fresh air to enter the building to replace the air being blown out.
This method will blow the moist pool air out of the building helping to dehumidify the air. The heat pump will gain some benefit from using the warmer pool room air.
The disadvantage of this method is that the air in the pool room will soon be the same temperature as the outside air.
This is not normally desirable for an indoor pool, particularly in winter !
For this reason, it is normally best to put the heat pump outdoors and use seperate dehumidifiers to dry and warm the pool room air.
We sell “all-in-one” type units (eg the Heatstar Gemini) that can provide pool water heating, dehumidification and air heating.
Please contact us for more information.
Will it damage my heat pump to put it outdoors?
|No, all of our heat pumps are designed to go outdoors and are weatherproof.
They will operate perfectly well in all weather conditions including heavy rain and wind etc.
We recommend that you cover your heat pump with one of our specially designed winter covers during winter when the heat pump is not in use. This will give your heat pump some additional protection against the weather.
Can I plug the heat pump into a standard 13A mains socket?
We recommend that armoured cable is used to run the electrical supply to the heat pump.
Armoured cable provides protection from the cable being accidentally damaged and is therefore safer than standard electrical flex cable.
The heat pump should be connected to an RCD device for safety reasons.
Larger heat pumps will draw more than 13A and so a dedicated electrical supply may be required.
It is best to get a qualified electrician to connect your heat pump to the electirical supply. The electrician will also ensure that the heat pump has a proper earth.
I use salt in my pool rather than chlorine, will this damage the heat pump?
|No, all of our pool heat pumps have titanium heat exchangers which are resistant to damage from salt, chlorine or bromine used in pools.|
Getting To Know Your Pool
When you go to your car mechanic they ask you, “what’s the make and model of your vehicle?” You probably know the answer – it’s expected of you. So why do few people know what kind of pool they have and when it was built?
Mainly because they’re not asked it enough, but if you knew it, getting the right parts and solving issues with your pool would be a lot easier. Just take the time to know your pool.
There are three fundamentals of pool care: circulation, cleaning, and chemistry – in that order! Circulation is often overlooked, but it’s the most important area of pool maintenance. A pool that has good circulation will rarely have issues like algae and cloudy water.
One of the biggest questions I’m asked is how long a pump and filter should run. My answer: 24/7. However, that’s not going to work for everyone’s budget. So here’s a guide I put together to help you figure out how long you should keep your pump and filter running for the best circulation.
Technically speaking, circulation is cleaning. It’s the automatic part of keeping a pool clean. However, your pool needs some good old-fashioned elbow grease from you. A pool with good circulation will need it less often, but you should do your part to vacuum, skim, and brush your pool on a weekly basis – just like you do in your home (I hope).
Last but not least is chemistry. This is the area of pool care that most people are confused by, but you shouldn’t be. It’s actually very easy. There are a few key chemicals you need to worry about, and the rest is just fluff.
Before you go adding an assortment of chemicals that the pool store told you to, you need to test your water first. Testing your water is something you should do before adding any chemicals at all. It’s very easy and you can even do it at home. Check out the following guide and video.
Once you know what your pH, alkalinity, and chlorine readings are, you can start to add chemicals. Be sure to know what each chemical does and how it affects the water and the people who are swimming.
What type of pool lining do you have?
There are four types of pool linings – fiberglass, marbelite, chip-tile and vinyl lined pools
How to find out what pool linings you have?
Here is a simple way to determine what type of pool lining you have…
- A marbelite pool has a gunite or marbelite lining on top of its concrete shell. The lining is porous and rough to the touch
- A fiberglass lining can be applied to previously gunite or marbelite pools, or exists in premoulded factory build pools. The lining is less porous than on a marbelite and is smooth to the touch
- Vinyl pool linings are plastic
- Chip tile pool linings are similar to marbelite pools in nature but are decorated with with tiles.
- Different pool linings may require that you add only certain types of pool chemicals, and add the pool chemicals in different ways
- Take note of directions on packaging when selecting pool chemicals and before adding them to your pool
Swimming and Pool Trivia to Share with Friends
An hour of vigorous swimming will burn up to 650 calories. It burns off more calories than walking or biking.
Swimming strengthens the heart and lungs.
Swimming works out all of the body’s major muscles.
Swimming helps reduce stress.
Water’s buoyancy make swimming the ideal exercise for physical therapy and rehabilitation or for anyone seeking a low-impact exercise.
Swimming is a great cardiovascular exercise because you are moving against the water’s resistance, which is over ten times that of the air.
Over 50% of world-class swimmers suffer from shoulder pain.
More than 50 years later, the home or residential swimming pool is ubiquitous and even the smallest world nations enjoy a thriving swimming pool industry (e.g. New Zealand pop. 4,116,900 [Source NZ Census 7 March 2006] – with 65,000 home swimming pools and 125,000 hot tub pools).
The slowest Olympic swim stroke is the breaststroke.
The fastest and most efficient swim stroke is the crawl/ freestyle.
The turbopump on the Space Shuttle’s main engine is powerful enough to drain an average-sized swimming pool in 25 seconds.
Most swimmers at the highest levels of competition train from four to five hours per day and five to seven days per week. They will typically swim about six to twelve miles per day along with weight training and flexibility training.
The Olympics are swum in a 50 meter pool or long course pool. Pools used by the NCAA and high school swimming programs can be 25 yards to 25 meters. These pools are called short course pools.
An Olympic size pool depending on its size (50 meters X 25 yards or meters) can hold from 700,000 to 850,000 gallons of water.
Competitive swimmers use the term fast pool when they are describing a pool that has a good gutter system on the sides. This system allows the water to flow out easily and doesn’t allow waves to bounce back to the middle of the pool. The lane lines can also help control the waves and the deeper the pool is, the fewer waves hit the bottom and bounce back up to the surface. The lack of these waves provides less drag/ resistance for the swimmers, which gives them a faster time.
Florida is the only state with legislation on who can teach swimming. Life guards and swimming instructors must, by law, be certified.
As with any other type of exercise you need to stay hydrated while swimming and you need to drink water. Your core body temperature can rise as the activity increases. Your body also produces sweat as it does with other physical activity, but it is not as apparent since you are already wet.
Studies shown that the shark is fast in the water but not naturally hydrodynamic. The shark’s quickness is attributed to V-shaped ridges on its skin called dermal tentacles. These ridges decrease dray and turbulence around the shark’s body, allowing more efficiency. The result of these studies has brought a brand new fabric to the market for competitive swim wear. Speedo has produced a fabric that emulates shark’s skin. This fabric reduces drag and turbulence around the body, which helps a swimmer pass through the water more effectively. The suits made from the “Fast skin” fabric have only been on the market for a little while but are already changing the look of competitive swimming and its results.
The oldest form of stroke used is the breaststroke.
Ancient drawings and paintings found in Egypt depicting people swimming date back to 2500 BCE.
Swim fins were invented by Benjamin Franklin.
Swimming became an amateur sport in the late part of the nineteenth century.
Swimming first became an Olympic event in 1896.
Swimming in the Olympics started as a men’s event only but women were able to participate starting in 1912.
The Deep Eddy Swimming Pool, built in 1915, is the oldest known concrete swimming pool and was built in Texas.
After World War I and the departure of “Long John” style swimming costumes, interest in competitive swimming grew. Standards improved and training became essential.
The first woman to swim the English Channel is Gertrude Ederle, who was actually just a teenager at that time in 1926.
Home swimming pools became popular in the USA after World War II and the publicity given to swimming sports by Hollywood films like Esther Williams’ Million Dollar Mermaid made a home pool a desirable status symbol.
Actress Esther Williams popularized synchronized swimming when she starred in movies known as “aqua musicals” produced by MGM in the forties and fifties. Aqua musicals were about synchronized swimming.
In 1956, the US National Swimming Pool Institute was founded. It was later renamed to the Association of Pool & Spa Professionals, and now develops pool construction standards and provides training to pool builders and service technicians.
President Gerald Ford had the outdoor swimming pool built at the White House in 1975. In 1976, a pool house was added — with a secret, underground passage that lets the First Family and their guests to get from the White House to the pool without going outside.
Synchronized swimming first appeared in the Olympics during the 1984 games.
Records and Firsts
The first recorded swimming races were held in Japan in 36 B.C.
The first man to cross the English Channel swimming from England to France is Englishman Captain Matthew Webb in 1875.
The first swimming pool to go to sea on an ocean liner was installed on the White Star Line’s Adriatic in 1907.
In the USA, the Racquet Club of Philadelphia clubhouse (1907) boasts one of the world’s first modern above-ground swimming pools.
The oldest known concrete swimming pool — the Deep Eddy Swimming Pool — was built in Texas in 1915.
The Titanic was the first ocean liner to have a swimming pool and a gym.
Mark Spitz was the first Olympic swimmer to win seven gold medals in a single Olympiad in the 1972 games.
The largest swimming pool ever built was reputedly created in Moscow after the Palace of Soviets remained uncompleted. The foundations were converted into an open air swimming pool after the process of de-Stalinisation after the fall of communism, Christ the Saviour Cathedral was re-built (it had originally been on the site) between 1995 and 2000.
In the 21st century, there seem to be many contenders for “the largest swimming pool on earth”, reputedly at Cox’s Bazar, Bangladesh; at Club Med Camarina, Sicily; Sunlite Pool, Coney Island, Cincinnati; and Garden City, Kansas with their 220 foot by 330 foot pool (67m x 100m) that holds 26,000,000 gallons (100 million litres) of water. A recent construction in Tokyo, Japan may top them all.
The longest swimming pool is the Orthlieb Pool in Casablanca, Morocco. It is 480 meters (1,574 feet) long and 75 meters (246 feet) wide. It is filled with sea water and covers 8.9 acres (3.60 Ha).
The recreational diving center Nemo 33 near Brussels, Belgium is home to the world’s deepest swimming pool. The pool has two large flat-bottomed areas at depth levels of 5m (16 ft) and 10m (32 ft), and a large circular pit descending to a depth of 33m (108 ft).
The Fleishhacker Pool was the largest swimming pool in the United States. Opened on 23 April 1925, it measured 300 m by 45 m (1,000 ft by 150 ft) and was so large that the lifeguards required kayaks for patrol. It closed in 1971 due to low patronage.
According to the Guinness World Records the largest swimming pool in the world is San Alfonso del Mar Seawater pool in Algarrobo, Chile. It is 1,013 m (3,324 ft) long and has an area of 8 ha (19.77 acre), it was completed in December 2006.
The first filtration system for a swimming pool was introduced in 1910.
The first photo finish for a swimming competition was done in 1939.
The first swimmer to break the two minute barrier in the 200 meters was Don Schollander.
Winter is here and there is no better time to restore your pool then now!
Enchanting Blu is making each pool this year look extra special.So weather you have a old pool which is falling apart or a new pool looking for a face lift, we can make your dreams come true.
Enchanting Blu specializes in marbelite, fiberglass and Gunnite pools and we can convert or transform any swimming pool to fit your every need.
Think you can ignore your pool in winter if it looks blue? Think again.
When it comes to swimming pool maintenance, “the biggest mistake pool owners make, particularly in Gauteng, is to really neglect their pools in winter,” says Philip Hughes, general manager at Zodiac Pool Care. Although it’s extremely tempting to leave your swimming pool alone in winter because it’s cold, there’s no rain and the pool looks nice and blue, this is likely to cause you headaches come the start of spring, he warns.
When the weather is very cold, the water in your swimming pool is very cold and this inhibits the growth of bacteria and other nasties that would otherwise turn your crystal-clear pool into pea soup. But appearances are deceptive. Just because the pool is blue, it doesn’t necessarily follow that the water is healthy – or even fit to swim in. This is particularly true on the Highveld, where dry, cold winters mean that there is little climatic interference (like rain or thunderstorms) to turn your pool green during the winter months.
GOOD TO KNOW
Keep your water level at the desired level, because a swimming pool relies on being full to keep its shape – a water level that is too low increases the risk of surface cracks.
The good news is that swimming pool maintenance during winter can be performed at a much lower frequency than during the busy summer months. Instead of running the pump for 12 hours a day, the pump can probably be run for eight hours a day, advises Hughes, and you’ll probably only need to add chlorine two to three times a week rather than the daily application in summer. Ideally, you’ll want to keep the residual chlorine level in your pool at 1 – 3 parts per million. This is quite a wide band, but pool owners must keep the swimming pool maintained within that range throughout the year. “It’s necessary to keep the water chlorinated in some way throughout winter. Without a residual build-up of either chlorine, stabilizers, or whichever pool chemicals are required throughout winter, when swimming season starts in September, the pool will quickly turn green. If the pool is not being chlorinated in some way, either through added chlorine or through a salt chlorinator, it’s not healthy water and you definitely wouldn’t want to swim in that water,” cautions Hughes.
“The most critical thing is that you need to maintain certain chemical levels in your pool. Your pH levels should be between 7.2 – 7.4 or 7.0 – 7.2, depending on the surface,” he explains, while also maintaining residual chlorine. This requirement doesn’t change whether it’s the middle of winter or the middle of summer, but the frequency and quantity of chemicals that you add to the pool will differ, depending on the season, weather and bather load. There’s also no reason to stop testing your water just because it’s winter – keeping the pH balance of the swimming pool correct is the foundation of a healthy pool.
GOOD TO KNOW
Any swimming pool maintenance that is above ground (think filter or pump) is fairly straightforward for the competent DIY enthusiast, but when the problem is underground (piping or the filtration system), it’s best to err on the side of caution and call in the experts, recommends Hughes.
GET IN TOUCH
To find a Zodiac service centre near you, visit www.zodiac.co.za. Tell us what you do to keep your pool in tip-top condition during the winter by posting your comments and pictures on our Facebook page.
There’s always confusion when it comes to the best ways to close your pool for the year. Should you drain it or leave it alone? Are pool covers worth the money? As you’re hustling to get the rest of your property ready for winter, it’s easy to make mistakes or overlook details. Here are three of the most common mistakes people make as they winterize their pools.
Is your swimming pool ready for the winter?
Pool Closing Mistake 1: Skipping the Pool Cover
People often avoid covering their pool for the winter because pool covers are an additional cost. However, an uncovered pool will cost you far more over the span of a few short years than a simple pool cover.
For one thing, an uncovered pool will become a catch-all for leaves and debris. Those leaves will spend all winter stewing away in the bottom of your pool. In the spring, you’ll be welcomed with a nasty, sludgy mess. You’ll spend hours shoveling rotten leaves out of your pool, and the grime is likely to leave your pool stained. That means an expensive pool opening in the spring, or possibly even a new liner to make your pool look fresh.
A cover can protect your liner from the elements, too. Floating chunks of ice, branches, and other sharp objects can make it into the pool over the winter, which can cause liner cuts and tears. A cover can collect those things on top and keep them away from the liner itself. Also, year round sun exposure can reduce a liner’s lifespan. Covering the liner can prevent it from becoming brittle and fading too soon.
Pool Closing Mistake 2: Draining the Pool
To some people, it makes sense to drain the pool for the winter. After all, wouldn’t a giant block of ice do some kind of damage? The Arizona Department of Water Resources says otherwise. Pools very rarely need to be drained completely.
If you have a vinyl-lined above-ground pool, leaving it full for the winter will protect the vinyl liner from shrinkage and other damage. Since these pools are above ground level, keeping them full ensures that the wind will not damage the walls, liner, or frame.
While in-ground pools are fairly safe from wind, they do present their own challenges. As temperatures dip, the ground freezes and expands, putting pressure on your pool’s walls from the outside. The weight and force of the water inside your pool counteracts the pressure from the ground outside your pool. In other words, a drained in-ground pool has the potential to crack – or in extreme cases, cave in – when the ground freezes!
Pool Closing Mistake 3: Ignoring the Dangers of Snow, Ice and Giant Leaf Piles
So you’ve left your pool full of water and put the cover on – that should keep it safe over the winter, right? Not necessarily! You’ll still need to protect your pool from ice, and your pool cover from leaves, snow and other heavy debris.
Here are some helpful closing tips:
- Take care to pump excess water off of the cover as it collects. A little water is advised, as it keeps the cover from whipping in the wind, but too can put intense pressure on the straps and pool rails.
- Sweep or shop vac off leaves as they collect on top of the cover. Not only can they add to the weight of the cover, but they can cause the collected water to become swampy.
- Use a Gizmo ice compensator so that if your water freezes, the ice will squeeze inward on the Gizmo rather than outward on the pool walls.
These three mistakes are some of the most common that people make year after year. If you skip one of these steps, your pool isn’t likely to suffer catastrophic damage. However, the cleanup and repair process will end up costing you more than proper maintenance, and it will be yet another item on your already long spring to-do list!
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